Things to consider when looking for a quiet ceiling fan
The primary job of a ceiling fan is to cool you down. Not only are we experts in stating the obvious but also in ceiling fans! A powerful fan can cool you down nicely, but a noisy powerful fan can bother you, keep you awake at night and make you actually turn it off in desperation. That is why it is important when looking for a fan that you try and choose the quietest one you can find. There are plenty of noisy fans out there, so it is worth doing a little bit of homework first before buying one to save rendering your purchase worthless. Ceiling fans can also be used to help warm a room however an overly noisy fan can fast become a nuisance no matter what you use it for.
So how do I know what I should be looking for? Well unfortunately, manufacturers don’t tend to give actual ratings for sound on ceiling fans. We wish they would and have suggested it more than once, but it usually falls upon deaf ears (no puns intended). Instead there are a few practical things to look out for and a little guidance & advice to follow that could potentially help you.
First off, the general advice is that quality will always be quieter over cheap. The practical reason for this is down to the materials and construction used. We tend to stick to Fantasia ceiling fans here because they are built with silicon steel & double sealed bearings. The result of this is a smoother running, quieter motor. Fantasia, themselves, advertise their fans as whisper quiet and this is pretty much true. No ceiling fan can ever be completely quiet though. It’s impossible. A motor will always make a noise, no matter how feint however some need a lot of focussing to hear. The other reason a fan can never truly be silent is the physical movement of the blades. Ceiling fan blades chop through the air and this in itself will always create some noise. There is advice on this though that can help you during the purchasing process.
If you can imagine a scenario such as a bedroom, where sound needs to be at a minimum during the night, it is really important to choose the correct size of ceiling fan. Quite often people think they need as small a fan as possible, so as not to dominate the ceiling. This is actually the worst thing you can do when quietness is important. Come the summer months, when your home can get hot & stuffy, you need as much air movement as possible whilst you sleep. The trouble with a small fan is that to generate this air movement it will need to operate on high speed and whizz around as fast as it can. This in turn creates a lot of noise. If you choose a larger fan, you can operate it in slow mode to generate the same air movement thus creating a similar effect with minimal noise. Imagine the larger fan ticking over, slowly rotating around as you sleep.
The cynical amongst us might think that is a ploy to get consumers to buy larger fans and therefore spend more money. The actual truth of it is that a great deal of ceiling fans are available in 2 sizes and the only difference being the pack of blades supplied. Taking the Fantasia Viper Plus fan as an example, both the 44” and 54” versions are the exact same price.
So if you are looking for a quiet bedroom fan then the advice really is to try your best to purchase a quality brand of fan, no matter how tempting that cheap DIY store model was, and go for as large as possible. It might be cold and wintery outside right now but the sun will eventually return and along with it, those sticky, humid nights.
The author of this blogpost was Dave Riley. Ceiling fan & Lighting expert of 16 years with Lightahome Ltd.
From drab to statement piece. The renaissance of the humble table lamp.
Well it’s October now, the central heating is desperate to kick in and it’s slowly getting darker as I get home each evening from work. It’s the time of year when it’s all about being cosy. Sue and I might argue about quite a bit in the office but one thing we agree on is a nice bit of ambient light in your room creates warmth and character. A nice glow illuminating your room can be created in a variety of different ways but one of the best is a table lamp. The humble table lamp has been under rated for a long time now. Resigned to the shelves of the big DIY & department stores, table lamps became bland and monotonous in recent years. Cheap & cheerful, more of a functional item than a design aspiration. Stacked high and sold cheaply. In the last 12 months however, something has changed. Whether it’s due to a consequence of the ‘don’t settle’ generation or people spending more money on their homes instead of moving, people have started to look at table lamps in a different way.
We spend so much time and effort designing our rooms. Choosing carpets and rugs and wallpaper. Everyone’s an interior designer and everyone has an idea on what makes a beautiful room. Whether you prefer traditional styles or an ultra-contemporary vibe, there is a table lamp that makes a statement for you. They can reflect your personality and it is noticeable today how they are seen as something to carefully choose and invest a little money in. Once an after-thought, a table lamp now is purchased with quality and style in mind.
This year it has been quite noticeable how customers appear to be shifting from the traditional cheap table lamps and have been choosing bespoke, quality lamps instead. Admittedly the choice out there is greater now than it has ever been. Companies such as David Hunt Lighting handmake a large variety of table lamps using handcrafted techniques with quality materials, such as silk, in a variety of colours. In fact, most lamp shades by that particular manufacturer can be created in 92 different versions. It isn’t just our elder customers who have been choosing these better quality of table lamps. The younger, new home-owner generation have bought their desires for uniqueness and providence and applied that when purchasing table lamps. A handmade table lamp made with responsibly sourced, quality materials is far more desirable than a lamp created by a machine in its thousands. A table lamp no longer is just for lighting a room. It’s a thing to be loved and appreciated. From talking with our customers, it is clear that a table lamp should add something to a room even when it isn’t actually illuminated.
How do you view a table lamp? Is it an item for purely illumination or do you see it as an enhancement of the room? Personally, I fall in to the bracket of appreciating the effort that goes in to a hand-crafted product, so I like a bespoke shade on a nice table lamp. There are of course times where a cheaper lamp is more than adequate. Either way, the humble table lamp is going through a renaissance and it’s about time.
For more lighting advice, information, latest styles & opinions, follow our blog.
The author of this blogpost was Dave Riley. Ceiling fan & Lighting expert of 16 years with Lightahome Ltd.
One shade, 92 colour combinations. The David Hunt Lighting approach to lampshades
We’ve done blogposts before about David Hunt Lighting and how they are a cut above the normal lighting manufacturer. There’s no need to cover old ground about their bespoke services but one thing I really thought I should discuss in a little more detail is just how impressive their shade options are!
David Hunt lighting products tend to work in one of two ways. Either the light comes complete with shades, such as some of their ceiling lights, or you purchase a shade as an accessory. This is often the case with their table lamps. Either way the process is pretty much the same. If the product comes with shades you are going to be choosing the colours you want. If it doesn’t they will recommend the type of shade and you then choose the desired colours. Each option is covered by the same colour palette.
As you would expect with a high-quality lighting manufacturer the vast majority of options are handmade with handwoven 100% silk. Slight variations & irregularities in the shade & weave of the silk only reinforce the natural quality nature of the material. Other material options, such as 100% natural linen, a natural fabric made from the flax plant, enhance the range further. It is the colour options however that really make the difference.
With David Hunt shades you tend to not only choose the outer shade colour but also the inner lining colour as well. Originally there were 13 outer colour options. There are now, at the time of writing this post, 23 outer colour options. The choice is huge. You can have the outer colour in 12 silk colours which are ivory, sea mist gold, taupe, truffle, silver grey, charcoal, French navy, black, peony, citron, olive green & firefly orange. If you would prefer a linen material you can choose from bone, limestone, marshmallow & slate grey. Selecting their satin material which is a cotton and polyester material, lets you choose from swan, almond cream, cloud, graphite, copper oxide, ballet pink & teal.
When you then consider that you have a choice of 4 inner lining options, which are gold metallic, silver metallic, bronze metallic & white you can start to appreciate what a massive choice there is. In fact, if you take one of David Hunt’s base shade designs you can technically create 92 different versions of the same shade!
Not only does this allow the majority of their fittings to suit any interior design style but from a commercial point of view it allows companies to colour match with their corporate identities. To date, the shade colour choice has been used by customers from a simple table lamp in a lounge to a hotel chains lobby area and rooms. Having such a vast range of options can also really change the look of David Hunt Lights. Some of their larger light fittings are completely transformed when different colours are applied. To sum up, it’s nice to have a lampshade made of a good quality natural material but it’s even better when you can create the exact look you’ve been craving for instead of settling for a couple of colours. As always with David Hunt, their shades are handmade and can take 7 to 10 days however with this type of product it is well worth the wait.
The full David Hunt Lighting range of shades is available now on the Lightahome website on the links above.
Your ceiling fan can warm a room in reverse!
It’s getting to that time of year again. The nights have started to draw in and the temperature is beginning to drop. The last thing most of us think about is the ceiling fans on our ceiling. What some of you might not be aware of however is the fact that your ceiling fan can actually help you warm your room usually. No, you didn’t misread that! Fantasia ceiling fans are designed to both cool & warm a room. Once your central heating comes on to help keep your home toasty all that lovely heat goes and rises to your ceiling, leaving a cold area for you to eat, sleep and live in below. Putting your fan on normally will only cool the room down with air movement, like it would at any time during the year. This is due to the rotation and the way it draws air and moves it.
Ceiling fans by Fantasia are designed to allow their blades and motor to rotate in the opposite direction. If selected, this reverse mode draws its air from the top of your ceiling and recirculates it back downwards. This motion has the effect of spreading the warm air trapped at ceiling level evenly throughout the room, giving an overall warmer feel.
Putting your Fantasia fan in to reverse mode is relatively easy however there are a couple of different ways of doing this dependent upon the model of fan you have. The standard Fantasia fans range tend to have a reverse switch built on to the body of the fan itself. This can usually be located at the top of the fan motor. The switch itself is a simple on-off rocker switch. Its position on the motor means that the fan has to be stationary for you to activate it which protects the motor from damage when it changes direction. Obviously, this can be awkward if your fan is fitted on a high ceiling and requires ladders or scaffolding to reach it, so if you are reading this with the intention of purchasing a fan then one of the Fantasia Elite fans might be something to consider as they use an easier reverse system.
Most Fantasia Elite fans can be set in reverse mode but instead of having to activate a manual switch located on the fans body, most can be remotely activated. Fans such as the Fantasia Viper Plus have an additional switch on the remote controls handset which when pressed will tell the fan to slow down to a stop, set itself in to reverse and then reach the previous speed only now in the opposite direction. This slowing down to a stop protects the fans motor which is important. Other Fantasia Elite fans will do the same thing and it is worth checking each fans product description to be sure.
So, if you have a Fantasia fan and you’ve started putting your heating on then it’s the perfect time to flick that reverse switch and to start using that wasted hot air up above!
Adding a longer drop rod to a ceiling fan
There are occasions when the drop rod that comes with your ceiling fan just isn’t long enough. Maybe you’re fitting your ceiling fan in to a conservatory and you need a greater depth than the fan already gives to stop the blades hitting the glass. Or you might have a very high ceiling and the fan needs to be that little bit lower. Most decent ceiling fan manufacturers offer longer drop rods as accessories. These rods can replace your existing drop rod and therefore change the height of your fan. That is the first thing to take note of. You don’t ever add a drop rod to an existing rod. You are always replacing the original rod. Most Fantasia fans come with 6 inch drop rods however Fantasia also make replacement fan rods at 12, 18, 30, 48 & 72 inch lengths, so your options are quite varied.
In this blog post I will describe how to change a short drop rod on a ceiling fan to a longer drop rod. There is also a link to our YouTube video on the subject below if you would like to watch the process. This change of rod was completed on a Fantasia ceiling fan, but the process is usually pretty similar on other manufacturers and models.
The first thing to do before attempting any work on your ceiling fan is to obviously turn all the power off to the unit. Some ceiling fans have components that can remain charged for an hour after power has been cut so it may be worth leaving the fan for a short time before attempting any work on it.
Once you are happy that the fan is now safe your first action is to remove the bowl/dish that sits at the top of the existing drop rod and covers up the attachment to the ceiling. This is done normally by unscrewing a couple of screws either side of this dish which holds it in place. You may need to twist the dish to move it out of its locking position after undoing the screws, which will then allow the dish to be slid down the drop rod out of the way.
You should now be able to see the attachment to the ceiling and all the wiring. I always find it good practice to draw a diagram of where the wires are currently being wired in to. I will sometimes mark the outside of the cables with a permanent marker to identify them. Once you are happy that you have noted where the cables go you can disconnect them. (Please always ensure that all power is cut to the fan and if you are not sure you should consult a qualified electrician).
With the fans cables now disconnected you should see that the existing drop rod has a ball joint fitted at the top and this is sitting in a hanging bracket. Holding the fan firmly you should be able to lift the whole unit up and away so the fan and rod comes away from the fixing bracket and you can take it all down to floor level. It may be a good idea to rest the unit on a table but be careful not to scratch the fan or the furniture. Resting the fan on a towel may be advisable.
I usually have a cup of tea about now and congratulate myself on getting this far! Once the biscuits are gone and the cup is empty it’s on to the next stage.
The ball joint sitting at the top of the existing rod needs to be removed. You do this by undoing the small screw in the side of the ball joint which holds it in place. The ball joint will become loose and can slip down the rod, leaving a pin exposed that is through 2 holes in the top of the rod. Remove this pin and keep it along with the small screw you undid a moment ago. Also keep the ball joint that can now be slid up and off the rod & also the original dish/cover that should be sitting at the bottom of the rod (which you put there at the very start of the procedure).
The bottom of the existing rod is sometimes covered up by a little cover dish which normally just slides up and off the rod, exposing where the rod attaches in to the ceiling fan itself. The bottom of the rod, in this instance, is sitting in a little holder and held in place by another pin that pushes through the holder and the rod. A small split-pin is pushed through the end of the main pin to hold it in place. This little split pin can be opened and removed allowing you to pull the main pin out of the holes running through the holder and the bottom of the drop rod.
With these removed and retained you can now lift of the original drop rod and pull it away from the fan. Note that the fans wiring will slip out of the original drop rod as it is withdrawn. It’s definitely time for another cup of tea! Now it’s time for the new drop rod.
Take the wires that come out of the fan motor and ease them up the new, longer drop rod until they protrude out of the top. The cables should be long enough however if they are not then Lightahome stock the cable connection kits by Fantasia to help). Slot the new rod in to the holder on the top of the fan and line up the holes in the holder and the new rod by peering through.
The pin you removed from the base of the older rod can now be carefully pushed through the holes so it passes through the holes in the holder and the base of the rod. This can be fiddly as you have to work the pin past the fan cables that sit inside the new rod but it can be done with a little patience. Once that pin is in place you can put the little split-pin back through the hole at the end of the pin you fitted a moment ago. This stops the main pin from ever coming out.
Congratulations! The first part of the new rod is complete. Maybe ring someone to tell them how amazing you are?! Now take the little cover you removed earlier from the bottom of the original rod and slide it back down the new rod, so it covers up that holder and pin. It’s important to remember at this point to then slide down the dish/cover that hides everything on the ceiling (the first task you completed!).
Now we need to attach the ball joint to the top of the new, longer rod. Put the ball joint over the top of the rod and slide it down. With it resting at the bottom on the other things, you can take the pin you removed from the ball joint earlier and push it through the 2 holes at the top of the rod. Pulling the ball joint back up the rod and twisting it until it lines up with that pin will allow the ball joint to sit at the top of the drop rod with the pin inside. Re-fit the original little screw in to the side of the ball joint so it bites on to the rod and thus holds the ball joint in place at the top. You can now carefully lift the whole unit and hang it back within the hanging bracket that is still on the ceiling. The ball joint slots in to the holder and the fans weight pulls the fan down locking it in place.
This is already starting to look like the best DIY job you have ever nearly completed. Before you post on Facebook how much of a genius you are though, it’s best to complete the final stages.
With the fan hanging back in place you can now reconnect the cables coming from the ceiling. Use you notes from earlier to ensure all the wires go back in to the correct places. Happy that you have got that correct, you can now slide the cover that is sitting at the bottom of the new drop rod back up in to place and lock it over the 2 original screws you undid and then tighten them. This now covers up the attachment to the ceiling and leaves the ceiling looking as it did at the start only on a longer drop rod!
Turn the power back on and test the fan. Everything should be working perfectly fine. If there are any issues you may need to kill the power again and relook at the wiring, but this can be avoided if you took decent notes at the start. Congratulations, you have now fitted a longer drop rod and can now bask in your own handy work before showering your social media with photos of your achievement.
If at any point along the way you feel like you need any advice you can always contact the retailer who sold you the ceiling fan or you can contact us here at Lightahome where we can attempt to give you further advice.
The author of this blogpost was Dave Riley. Ceiling fan expert of 16 years with Lightahome Ltd.
Coastal Lights – things to consider
When I think of the UK’s coastline it conjures thoughts of a beautiful rugged environment. Glorious when the sun is shining and treacherous when it is stormy. We really do have an active, romantic, unpredictable coast in our country. What can be pleasing on the eye and good for the soul can also be very destructive for our products we purchase, that are exposed to these harsh elements the whole year around. As a lighting retailer we often see the results of a standard light fitting fitted within a short distance of a coastline and the rapid deterioration it experiences.
Harsh elements can affect a lights safety as well as its look!
Normal outdoor lighting, you see, just won’t cut it. There is a plethora of attractive outdoor lights out there, but unless you do a bit of homework & purchase a light designed for coastal areas, you are going to be very disappointed. Outdoor lights, like bathroom lighting, each have an IP-rating which tells us how well it can withstand moisture penetrating the product. It tells you where it can be fitted & what kind of exposure it can take. This is all well and good when your outdoor light is fitted in a region away from the coastline, but when it is fitted near the sea not only do you have to worry about material fatigue but also what the fatigue will do from a safety aspect to the light.
The basic facts are that salt penetration will affect any metal light fitting that is fitted near the coast. It is continually bombarded by it and not just by spray and rain but also in the air. The 2 issues you have from this is keeping the light fitting looking good and also keeping it safe. If a light deteriorates too much from this exposure it can render its IP-rating useless and create a dangerous product. So, what do you look for in a coastal light? One train of thought is to go for stainless steel. It’s been engrained in our brains that stainless steel is robust and durable & it can be to an extent. The trouble with stainless steel is that there are different grades of it. The better the grade the more expensive it is, and most outdoor lights are not made from a grade high enough to provide adequate protection around the coast. Other materials such as galvanised steel and copper can provide good protection and solid brass is also quite adequate.
Do your homework!
Whichever material you choose I would always recommend you actively look for a light that is actually described as a coastal light. Our range of coastal lighting has been designed specifically for harsh, exposed environments and has been salt spray tested to ensure suitability. Looking for a specialist product will probably save you the expense and time of replacing standard alternatives within the first year of their installation.
Whichever material your coastal light is made of it is going to react to salt deposits left upon the surface. A material such as solid brass can usually be polished to remove this natural patina although it can actually enhance the character of the light if left. Other materials are not as easy to polish away the signs of salt corrosion. Occasionally rinsing coastal lighting with fresh water to remove salt deposits is always recommended. This one action alone could lengthen the products life dramatically. A product that is rinsed with fresh water from time to time will also stop metal corrosion and thus keep your light materially safe.
Read your coastal lights warranty details!
To sum up it is always best to take your time when choosing coastal lights. Don’t be tempted to order that light you really love if it doesn’t mention being suitable for coasts or has a warning on its warranty about installations in exposed, coastal areas. If the lights warranty mentions about not being covered in coastal areas then avoid the product completely. Either the light won’t be able to withstand salt and harsh environments or the manufacturer doesn’t want to take responsibility for a failed product. What might look nice in the box and initially on the wall will probably look awful a few months later when it is rusted, stained and potentially dangerous.
The safety of double insulated bathroom lighting is often questioned. It is understandable as both bathroom lights and class 2 double insulated lights are 2 areas of lighting that are controlled by safety rules and regulations. Put them both together and you have a combination of concerns. Firstly, a double insulated light is designed in a way that its internal wiring allows for an earth free connection. Designed primarily for homes without an earth, it can be made from metal and other conductive materials as there is a reduced risk of danger occurring. Secondly bathroom lighting is controlled by an IP-rating which determines what zone it can be fitted within your bathroom. The lower the zone number requires a higher IP rating. Normally as a minimum it would require an IP-rating of IP44 however you can learn more about bathroom zones here. The zones and IP-ratings tell us how well a light can prevent moisture from penetrating it. Both of these things combined together can seem confusing however it needn’t be the case.
The first thing to realise is that double insulated bathroom lighting is perfectly safe. Every kind of bathroom light is available in a non-earthed variety. Bathroom ceiling lights, wall lights and downlights are all available without the need for an earth connection. Lightahome has actually specialised in these types of lights for years. Both bathroom lights and class 2 may be regulated and mentioned in the current wiring regulations that electricians follow but combined together they do not have a detrimental effect on one another.
As double insulated lights are a rarer, specialist form of lighting, I would suggest tackling this first. Start by looking for a class 2 lighting specialist first before then looking for a bathroom light. It is pretty much guaranteed that if you look at a bathroom lighting retailer and then hope you will find a class 2 version, it’s not going to happen. The amount of people who speak to us on the telephone and tell us they’ve been to a DIY store only to find that none of the staff members know what a double insulated light is, is frequent. Start with the rarer requirement. Speak with a double insulated lighting specialist and then ask for a bathroom light. You will actually find that there is quite a wide choice available & an electrician shouldn’t have any issues with fitting one for you.
Lighting manufacturers understand that there are people out there who don’t have an earth in their homes lighting circuit. Some of them actually create entire ranges of lights that can be fitted without an earth no matter what room of the home they are to be fitted or whatever regulation applies. Not having an earth shouldn’t stop you from fitting attractive bathroom lighting so if you require double insulated bathroom lights then I would suggest speaking to experts such as Lightahome to ensure you are purchasing the correct type of product. You can call us on 02476717043.
At Lightahome we answer a lot of telephone calls. Some are for customer orders and some are for customer service requests. Of the customer service requests, it is a fair estimate that at least a couple a week are about an issue with their Fantasia ceiling fans. That’s not to say that Fantasia fans are poor quality or susceptible to issues. Quite the opposite. If we stocked cheap branded fans, then I can safely guarantee that our customer fan issues would go through the roof. As Lightahome have a reputation as one of the UK’s largest & oldest retailers of Fantasia fans it is understandable that people throughout the UK would call us. You only have to ask Sue in the office about the number of calls we get.
Some issues are very minor, and concern broken glass shades on delivery, which are easily replaced. Others are a little more technical and can cover issues from ‘my fan is making a grinding noise,’ ‘my fan won’t turn off,’ ‘my fan is running very slowly,’ ‘the light on my fan works but not the fan itself.’ All these issues are pretty much connected in one way or another and each tends to have the same remedy. They are all symptoms of a faulty remote control, or a faulty remote control-receiver to be more precise. People are often confused when this is suggested. Often, they have changed the battery in the handset and the little red light still works. It is actually incredibly rare to have a faulty handset just as it is incredibly rare to have a faulty Fantasia fan motor. They are both that rare, in fact, that I could probably count on 2 hands the amount of faulty remote handsets and Fantasia fan motors that I have experienced in the last 16 years.
No, the issue pretty much all the time is the receiver unit. This little unit, when failing, can cause fans to become erratic. It can render a Fantasia fan unable to turn off. It can also stop a fan from working, even when the light works perfectly fine. A faulty receiver unit can also cause your fan to make a scraping and grinding noise! (I know, I didn’t believe it either until I experienced it). As the unit fails, it stops sending the relevant instructions it receives from the handset to the fan. The Fantasia remote receiver unit is pretty much always located virtually at ceiling level, hidden under the dish that covers up the attachment to the ceiling. Physically, it is a little grey box (sometimes black) that is rectangular in shape with a small antenna protruding from the end & small cables protruding from either side. Its job is to receive any signals it detects & to pass them on to the fan. It does this by having your homes electrics wired in to one side of it (hence 2 of the cables on one side) and then 3 cables out the other side that connect up with the fan (a live & neutral for the fan motor and an orange cable for the light).
Any slight issues with this receiver unit can cause larger more apparent faults with your Fantasia fan, but fear not! The receiver unit comes with a 2-year warranty & is fully replaceable. With the power to your home fully off it is a simple case of a like for like swap, ensuring that you made a little note of where the cables previously went. Check to make sure the 4 little mini switches on the side of the receiver unit are in the same positions as on the receiver unit you removed, and you should be good to go. If there still appears to be an issue after this then it is probably a case that the remote handset needs to be reset however this is easily achieved over the telephone with Fantasia or Lightahome.
So, if you have a Fantasia fan and it appears to be acting rather strange or making unusual noises then the chances are, it is a failing remote control-receiver unit. If the red light still works on the handset then don’t waste your money buying a new battery. Dig out your original receipt and check to see if you’re entitled to a new receiver under your warranty. If not, they are available to purchase from Lightahome & we’ve made a handy little YouTube video to demonstrate how to change it should you struggle. Rest assured, if you’ve bought a Fantasia fan then the chances of a fault occurring are very low. Rest even more assured that if a fault does occur then the parts are fully available, and advice and help is only a telephone call or an email away.
To contact Lightahome you can call us on 024 7671 7043 or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
So, you’ve discovered that you don’t have an earth connection in your homes lighting circuit! Time was, this would have been a serious problem. The earth connection is what helps keep you safe if an electrical fault occurs. A lack of one can have dire repercussions. Fortunately, these days, there are a couple of routes you can take to help you if you find yourself in this situation. Which one is best? Well that is for you to decide ultimately, judging upon your circumstances. Below is an explanantion of each of the solutions so you can make an informed decision.
A full rewire. Yes, this is as major as it sounds. The electrics for your lighting come from your fuse board (consumer unit) which is often located under the stairs or high up on walls in your hall. If you haven’t got an earth, then you may well have the old fashioned red and black (live & neutral) cables that feed each light. A professional electrical company, or electrician, can replace this wiring for you to a modern equivalent that has an earth wire included. This is a good solution as it modernises your homes electrics. The downside to this approach can be the fact that it is an expensive option. It is a physically demanding job and rightfully costs the relevant money to do the job. You would normally have to wait for a rewire as well as an electrician would normally have to book you in as it can take a few days dependent upon the size of the job. The other drawback to a rewire can be the amount of mess that it causes. Electric cables are often under floorboards & inside walls. It is not uncommon to have to redecorate areas after electrical work is complete because wall paper has been damaged etc. You may find your home is a little bit of a mess for a few days whilst the job is being completed, but again, this is dependent upon the size of the job.
Double Insulated Lights
The other option, which is newer than a rewire, is to use double insulated lights. Double insulated lighting, or class 2 lights as they are sometimes known, were originally developed for this particular reason. Electricians have to follow a set of official guidelines to ensure their work complies with the latest safety standards. In these regulations it is stated that in instances where an earth wire isn’t present an electrician can use a class 2 light instead. These special types of lights, although different inside due to increased protection, look the same as normal lights to the eye and are now readily available through specialist lighting retailers. Here at Lightahome we have one of the UK’s largest collections of double insulated lights. These lights are fitted in the same way as normal lights, using your houses existing wiring (without the earth of course which you don’t have) and are designed to protect you in the unlikely event that an electrical fault may occur. The positives of using this form of lighting include the lack of a mess a rewire creates, reduced costs as double insulated lights are often the same price as normal lighting & the ability to simply change the existing light to a new class 2 version which is much quicker & cost effective. The downside is that your wiring still remains old fashioned without an earth connection.
All in all, both options are very good and will do the job for you. If money isn’t an issue and if the job looks as if minimal mess would be created, it may be worth considering a rewire. If however you simply need to replace a few lights to be safe & compliant then I would suggest taking a look at double insulated lighting and our specialist sections on our website is probably a good place to start.
The Fantasia Propeller fan was designed to fit a gap in the marketplace. Consumers were looking for something sleeker & less bulky than some of the existing ceiling fans that dominated the industry, but still wanted something that offered excellent air movement. A 2 bladed fan had been suggested quite a few times and when the fan was finally ready, it was only ever going to be called the Propeller fan! Simple & contemporary to look at, the Fantasia Propeller still retains that unmistakable quality appearance of a Fantasia fan.
As usual with most Fantasia fans, the Propeller has 3 speed settings which are controlled by the remote control, which is included. Being a part of the whisper quiet fans range, the Propeller can be operated on slow mode throughout the night to create a cooling breeze with minimal noise. Even with only 2 blades, as opposed to the standard 4 or 5 that you normally see on a ceiling fan, it still generates over 4300 cubic feet of air movement per minute! The remote control also controls the fans light, which is a 50w halogen G9 style light. This provides good light output and the halogen can be swapped for a Fantasia dimmable LED G9 should you wish to go down this route. The light is dimmable and can be set to the light level you require by means of holding down the light button on the handset and releasing when the desired level is achieved. Simply clicking the light button without holding it down will turn the light on & off.
The Propeller is a part of the main Fantasia ceiling fans range and as such comes with a 10-year motor manufacturers’ warranty. The remote control itself is covered by the manufacturers’ standard 2-year warranty. The fan is available in all white & also a brushed nickel finish & also comes in 2 sizes. There is currently a 44” and a 54” and it is recommended that users opt for the larger version wherever possible. This doesn’t usually affect the price as the only difference between the 2 sizes of fan is the blade pack in the box. Blades are available in white, maple & dark oak. Though the Propeller range can take any of the ranges blades, allowing you to choose the colour you like, the white blades come with the white fan as standard and the nickel fans come with maple/dark oak blades.
The Propeller fan is fitted with a short 6” drop rod and this has to be used when installing. Because of this, the Propeller might not be suitable for rooms with low ceilings. If you have high ceilings or wish to install the fan in a conservatory & you need to drop the fan down a little lower, you can purchase longer drop rods as an accessory. The Fantasia Propeller fan requires a 27mm diameter rod and lengths are available in 12”, 18”, 30”, 48” & 72”. On high speed, the Propeller only uses 63W of power, which makes it very economical to run.
To summarise, if you are looking for a good quality ceiling fan that you can rely upon but you want it to be that little bit different to the norm, with a contemporary edge without compromising on performance, then I would highly recommend taking a closer look at the Fantasia Propeller ceiling fan.