Adding a longer drop rod to a ceiling fan
There are occasions when the drop rod that comes with your ceiling fan just isn’t long enough. Maybe you’re fitting your ceiling fan in to a conservatory and you need a greater depth than the fan already gives to stop the blades hitting the glass. Or you might have a very high ceiling and the fan needs to be that little bit lower. Most decent ceiling fan manufacturers offer longer drop rods as accessories. These rods can replace your existing drop rod and therefore change the height of your fan. That is the first thing to take note of. You don’t ever add a drop rod to an existing rod. You are always replacing the original rod. Most Fantasia fans come with 6 inch drop rods however Fantasia also make replacement fan rods at 12, 18, 30, 48 & 72 inch lengths, so your options are quite varied.
In this blog post I will describe how to change a short drop rod on a ceiling fan to a longer drop rod. There is also a link to our YouTube video on the subject below if you would like to watch the process. This change of rod was completed on a Fantasia ceiling fan, but the process is usually pretty similar on other manufacturers and models.
The first thing to do before attempting any work on your ceiling fan is to obviously turn all the power off to the unit. Some ceiling fans have components that can remain charged for an hour after power has been cut so it may be worth leaving the fan for a short time before attempting any work on it.
Once you are happy that the fan is now safe your first action is to remove the bowl/dish that sits at the top of the existing drop rod and covers up the attachment to the ceiling. This is done normally by unscrewing a couple of screws either side of this dish which holds it in place. You may need to twist the dish to move it out of its locking position after undoing the screws, which will then allow the dish to be slid down the drop rod out of the way.
You should now be able to see the attachment to the ceiling and all the wiring. I always find it good practice to draw a diagram of where the wires are currently being wired in to. I will sometimes mark the outside of the cables with a permanent marker to identify them. Once you are happy that you have noted where the cables go you can disconnect them. (Please always ensure that all power is cut to the fan and if you are not sure you should consult a qualified electrician).
With the fans cables now disconnected you should see that the existing drop rod has a ball joint fitted at the top and this is sitting in a hanging bracket. Holding the fan firmly you should be able to lift the whole unit up and away so the fan and rod comes away from the fixing bracket and you can take it all down to floor level. It may be a good idea to rest the unit on a table but be careful not to scratch the fan or the furniture. Resting the fan on a towel may be advisable.
I usually have a cup of tea about now and congratulate myself on getting this far! Once the biscuits are gone and the cup is empty it’s on to the next stage.
The ball joint sitting at the top of the existing rod needs to be removed. You do this by undoing the small screw in the side of the ball joint which holds it in place. The ball joint will become loose and can slip down the rod, leaving a pin exposed that is through 2 holes in the top of the rod. Remove this pin and keep it along with the small screw you undid a moment ago. Also keep the ball joint that can now be slid up and off the rod & also the original dish/cover that should be sitting at the bottom of the rod (which you put there at the very start of the procedure).
The bottom of the existing rod is sometimes covered up by a little cover dish which normally just slides up and off the rod, exposing where the rod attaches in to the ceiling fan itself. The bottom of the rod, in this instance, is sitting in a little holder and held in place by another pin that pushes through the holder and the rod. A small split-pin is pushed through the end of the main pin to hold it in place. This little split pin can be opened and removed allowing you to pull the main pin out of the holes running through the holder and the bottom of the drop rod.
With these removed and retained you can now lift of the original drop rod and pull it away from the fan. Note that the fans wiring will slip out of the original drop rod as it is withdrawn. It’s definitely time for another cup of tea! Now it’s time for the new drop rod.
Take the wires that come out of the fan motor and ease them up the new, longer drop rod until they protrude out of the top. The cables should be long enough however if they are not then Lightahome stock the cable connection kits by Fantasia to help). Slot the new rod in to the holder on the top of the fan and line up the holes in the holder and the new rod by peering through.
The pin you removed from the base of the older rod can now be carefully pushed through the holes so it passes through the holes in the holder and the base of the rod. This can be fiddly as you have to work the pin past the fan cables that sit inside the new rod but it can be done with a little patience. Once that pin is in place you can put the little split-pin back through the hole at the end of the pin you fitted a moment ago. This stops the main pin from ever coming out.
Congratulations! The first part of the new rod is complete. Maybe ring someone to tell them how amazing you are?! Now take the little cover you removed earlier from the bottom of the original rod and slide it back down the new rod, so it covers up that holder and pin. It’s important to remember at this point to then slide down the dish/cover that hides everything on the ceiling (the first task you completed!).
Now we need to attach the ball joint to the top of the new, longer rod. Put the ball joint over the top of the rod and slide it down. With it resting at the bottom on the other things, you can take the pin you removed from the ball joint earlier and push it through the 2 holes at the top of the rod. Pulling the ball joint back up the rod and twisting it until it lines up with that pin will allow the ball joint to sit at the top of the drop rod with the pin inside. Re-fit the original little screw in to the side of the ball joint so it bites on to the rod and thus holds the ball joint in place at the top. You can now carefully lift the whole unit and hang it back within the hanging bracket that is still on the ceiling. The ball joint slots in to the holder and the fans weight pulls the fan down locking it in place.
This is already starting to look like the best DIY job you have ever nearly completed. Before you post on Facebook how much of a genius you are though, it’s best to complete the final stages.
With the fan hanging back in place you can now reconnect the cables coming from the ceiling. Use you notes from earlier to ensure all the wires go back in to the correct places. Happy that you have got that correct, you can now slide the cover that is sitting at the bottom of the new drop rod back up in to place and lock it over the 2 original screws you undid and then tighten them. This now covers up the attachment to the ceiling and leaves the ceiling looking as it did at the start only on a longer drop rod!
Turn the power back on and test the fan. Everything should be working perfectly fine. If there are any issues you may need to kill the power again and relook at the wiring, but this can be avoided if you took decent notes at the start. Congratulations, you have now fitted a longer drop rod and can now bask in your own handy work before showering your social media with photos of your achievement.
If at any point along the way you feel like you need any advice you can always contact the retailer who sold you the ceiling fan or you can contact us here at Lightahome where we can attempt to give you further advice.
The author of this blogpost was Dave Riley. Ceiling fan expert of 16 years with Lightahome Ltd.
Coastal Lights – things to consider
When I think of the UK’s coastline it conjures thoughts of a beautiful rugged environment. Glorious when the sun is shining and treacherous when it is stormy. We really do have an active, romantic, unpredictable coast in our country. What can be pleasing on the eye and good for the soul can also be very destructive for our products we purchase, that are exposed to these harsh elements the whole year around. As a lighting retailer we often see the results of a standard light fitting fitted within a short distance of a coastline and the rapid deterioration it experiences.
Harsh elements can affect a lights safety as well as its look!
Normal outdoor lighting, you see, just won’t cut it. There is a plethora of attractive outdoor lights out there, but unless you do a bit of homework & purchase a light designed for coastal areas, you are going to be very disappointed. Outdoor lights, like bathroom lighting, each have an IP-rating which tells us how well it can withstand moisture penetrating the product. It tells you where it can be fitted & what kind of exposure it can take. This is all well and good when your outdoor light is fitted in a region away from the coastline, but when it is fitted near the sea not only do you have to worry about material fatigue but also what the fatigue will do from a safety aspect to the light.
The basic facts are that salt penetration will affect any metal light fitting that is fitted near the coast. It is continually bombarded by it and not just by spray and rain but also in the air. The 2 issues you have from this is keeping the light fitting looking good and also keeping it safe. If a light deteriorates too much from this exposure it can render its IP-rating useless and create a dangerous product. So, what do you look for in a coastal light? One train of thought is to go for stainless steel. It’s been engrained in our brains that stainless steel is robust and durable & it can be to an extent. The trouble with stainless steel is that there are different grades of it. The better the grade the more expensive it is, and most outdoor lights are not made from a grade high enough to provide adequate protection around the coast. Other materials such as galvanised steel and copper can provide good protection and solid brass is also quite adequate.
Do your homework!
Whichever material you choose I would always recommend you actively look for a light that is actually described as a coastal light. Our range of coastal lighting has been designed specifically for harsh, exposed environments and has been salt spray tested to ensure suitability. Looking for a specialist product will probably save you the expense and time of replacing standard alternatives within the first year of their installation.
Whichever material your coastal light is made of it is going to react to salt deposits left upon the surface. A material such as solid brass can usually be polished to remove this natural patina although it can actually enhance the character of the light if left. Other materials are not as easy to polish away the signs of salt corrosion. Occasionally rinsing coastal lighting with fresh water to remove salt deposits is always recommended. This one action alone could lengthen the products life dramatically. A product that is rinsed with fresh water from time to time will also stop metal corrosion and thus keep your light materially safe.
Read your coastal lights warranty details!
To sum up it is always best to take your time when choosing coastal lights. Don’t be tempted to order that light you really love if it doesn’t mention being suitable for coasts or has a warning on its warranty about installations in exposed, coastal areas. If the lights warranty mentions about not being covered in coastal areas then avoid the product completely. Either the light won’t be able to withstand salt and harsh environments or the manufacturer doesn’t want to take responsibility for a failed product. What might look nice in the box and initially on the wall will probably look awful a few months later when it is rusted, stained and potentially dangerous.
The safety of double insulated bathroom lighting is often questioned. It is understandable as both bathroom lights and class 2 double insulated lights are 2 areas of lighting that are controlled by safety rules and regulations. Put them both together and you have a combination of concerns. Firstly, a double insulated light is designed in a way that its internal wiring allows for an earth free connection. Designed primarily for homes without an earth, it can be made from metal and other conductive materials as there is a reduced risk of danger occurring. Secondly bathroom lighting is controlled by an IP-rating which determines what zone it can be fitted within your bathroom. The lower the zone number requires a higher IP rating. Normally as a minimum it would require an IP-rating of IP44 however you can learn more about bathroom zones here. The zones and IP-ratings tell us how well a light can prevent moisture from penetrating it. Both of these things combined together can seem confusing however it needn’t be the case.
The first thing to realise is that double insulated bathroom lighting is perfectly safe. Every kind of bathroom light is available in a non-earthed variety. Bathroom ceiling lights, wall lights and downlights are all available without the need for an earth connection. Lightahome has actually specialised in these types of lights for years. Both bathroom lights and class 2 may be regulated and mentioned in the current wiring regulations that electricians follow but combined together they do not have a detrimental effect on one another.
As double insulated lights are a rarer, specialist form of lighting, I would suggest tackling this first. Start by looking for a class 2 lighting specialist first before then looking for a bathroom light. It is pretty much guaranteed that if you look at a bathroom lighting retailer and then hope you will find a class 2 version, it’s not going to happen. The amount of people who speak to us on the telephone and tell us they’ve been to a DIY store only to find that none of the staff members know what a double insulated light is, is frequent. Start with the rarer requirement. Speak with a double insulated lighting specialist and then ask for a bathroom light. You will actually find that there is quite a wide choice available & an electrician shouldn’t have any issues with fitting one for you.
Lighting manufacturers understand that there are people out there who don’t have an earth in their homes lighting circuit. Some of them actually create entire ranges of lights that can be fitted without an earth no matter what room of the home they are to be fitted or whatever regulation applies. Not having an earth shouldn’t stop you from fitting attractive bathroom lighting so if you require double insulated bathroom lights then I would suggest speaking to experts such as Lightahome to ensure you are purchasing the correct type of product. You can call us on 02476717043.
At Lightahome we answer a lot of telephone calls. Some are for customer orders and some are for customer service requests. Of the customer service requests, it is a fair estimate that at least a couple a week are about an issue with their Fantasia ceiling fans. That’s not to say that Fantasia fans are poor quality or susceptible to issues. Quite the opposite. If we stocked cheap branded fans, then I can safely guarantee that our customer fan issues would go through the roof. As Lightahome have a reputation as one of the UK’s largest & oldest retailers of Fantasia fans it is understandable that people throughout the UK would call us. You only have to ask Sue in the office about the number of calls we get.
Some issues are very minor, and concern broken glass shades on delivery, which are easily replaced. Others are a little more technical and can cover issues from ‘my fan is making a grinding noise,’ ‘my fan won’t turn off,’ ‘my fan is running very slowly,’ ‘the light on my fan works but not the fan itself.’ All these issues are pretty much connected in one way or another and each tends to have the same remedy. They are all symptoms of a faulty remote control, or a faulty remote control-receiver to be more precise. People are often confused when this is suggested. Often, they have changed the battery in the handset and the little red light still works. It is actually incredibly rare to have a faulty handset just as it is incredibly rare to have a faulty Fantasia fan motor. They are both that rare, in fact, that I could probably count on 2 hands the amount of faulty remote handsets and Fantasia fan motors that I have experienced in the last 16 years.
No, the issue pretty much all the time is the receiver unit. This little unit, when failing, can cause fans to become erratic. It can render a Fantasia fan unable to turn off. It can also stop a fan from working, even when the light works perfectly fine. A faulty receiver unit can also cause your fan to make a scraping and grinding noise! (I know, I didn’t believe it either until I experienced it). As the unit fails, it stops sending the relevant instructions it receives from the handset to the fan. The Fantasia remote receiver unit is pretty much always located virtually at ceiling level, hidden under the dish that covers up the attachment to the ceiling. Physically, it is a little grey box (sometimes black) that is rectangular in shape with a small antenna protruding from the end & small cables protruding from either side. Its job is to receive any signals it detects & to pass them on to the fan. It does this by having your homes electrics wired in to one side of it (hence 2 of the cables on one side) and then 3 cables out the other side that connect up with the fan (a live & neutral for the fan motor and an orange cable for the light).
Any slight issues with this receiver unit can cause larger more apparent faults with your Fantasia fan, but fear not! The receiver unit comes with a 2-year warranty & is fully replaceable. With the power to your home fully off it is a simple case of a like for like swap, ensuring that you made a little note of where the cables previously went. Check to make sure the 4 little mini switches on the side of the receiver unit are in the same positions as on the receiver unit you removed, and you should be good to go. If there still appears to be an issue after this then it is probably a case that the remote handset needs to be reset however this is easily achieved over the telephone with Fantasia or Lightahome.
So, if you have a Fantasia fan and it appears to be acting rather strange or making unusual noises then the chances are, it is a failing remote control-receiver unit. If the red light still works on the handset then don’t waste your money buying a new battery. Dig out your original receipt and check to see if you’re entitled to a new receiver under your warranty. If not, they are available to purchase from Lightahome & we’ve made a handy little YouTube video to demonstrate how to change it should you struggle. Rest assured, if you’ve bought a Fantasia fan then the chances of a fault occurring are very low. Rest even more assured that if a fault does occur then the parts are fully available, and advice and help is only a telephone call or an email away.
To contact Lightahome you can call us on 024 7671 7043 or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
So, you’ve discovered that you don’t have an earth connection in your homes lighting circuit! Time was, this would have been a serious problem. The earth connection is what helps keep you safe if an electrical fault occurs. A lack of one can have dire repercussions. Fortunately, these days, there are a couple of routes you can take to help you if you find yourself in this situation. Which one is best? Well that is for you to decide ultimately, judging upon your circumstances. Below is an explanantion of each of the solutions so you can make an informed decision.
A full rewire. Yes, this is as major as it sounds. The electrics for your lighting come from your fuse board (consumer unit) which is often located under the stairs or high up on walls in your hall. If you haven’t got an earth, then you may well have the old fashioned red and black (live & neutral) cables that feed each light. A professional electrical company, or electrician, can replace this wiring for you to a modern equivalent that has an earth wire included. This is a good solution as it modernises your homes electrics. The downside to this approach can be the fact that it is an expensive option. It is a physically demanding job and rightfully costs the relevant money to do the job. You would normally have to wait for a rewire as well as an electrician would normally have to book you in as it can take a few days dependent upon the size of the job. The other drawback to a rewire can be the amount of mess that it causes. Electric cables are often under floorboards & inside walls. It is not uncommon to have to redecorate areas after electrical work is complete because wall paper has been damaged etc. You may find your home is a little bit of a mess for a few days whilst the job is being completed, but again, this is dependent upon the size of the job.
Double Insulated Lights
The other option, which is newer than a rewire, is to use double insulated lights. Double insulated lighting, or class 2 lights as they are sometimes known, were originally developed for this particular reason. Electricians have to follow a set of official guidelines to ensure their work complies with the latest safety standards. In these regulations it is stated that in instances where an earth wire isn’t present an electrician can use a class 2 light instead. These special types of lights, although different inside due to increased protection, look the same as normal lights to the eye and are now readily available through specialist lighting retailers. Here at Lightahome we have one of the UK’s largest collections of double insulated lights. These lights are fitted in the same way as normal lights, using your houses existing wiring (without the earth of course which you don’t have) and are designed to protect you in the unlikely event that an electrical fault may occur. The positives of using this form of lighting include the lack of a mess a rewire creates, reduced costs as double insulated lights are often the same price as normal lighting & the ability to simply change the existing light to a new class 2 version which is much quicker & cost effective. The downside is that your wiring still remains old fashioned without an earth connection.
All in all, both options are very good and will do the job for you. If money isn’t an issue and if the job looks as if minimal mess would be created, it may be worth considering a rewire. If however you simply need to replace a few lights to be safe & compliant then I would suggest taking a look at double insulated lighting and our specialist sections on our website is probably a good place to start.
The Fantasia Propeller fan was designed to fit a gap in the marketplace. Consumers were looking for something sleeker & less bulky than some of the existing ceiling fans that dominated the industry, but still wanted something that offered excellent air movement. A 2 bladed fan had been suggested quite a few times and when the fan was finally ready, it was only ever going to be called the Propeller fan! Simple & contemporary to look at, the Fantasia Propeller still retains that unmistakable quality appearance of a Fantasia fan.
As usual with most Fantasia fans, the Propeller has 3 speed settings which are controlled by the remote control, which is included. Being a part of the whisper quiet fans range, the Propeller can be operated on slow mode throughout the night to create a cooling breeze with minimal noise. Even with only 2 blades, as opposed to the standard 4 or 5 that you normally see on a ceiling fan, it still generates over 4300 cubic feet of air movement per minute! The remote control also controls the fans light, which is a 50w halogen G9 style light. This provides good light output and the halogen can be swapped for a Fantasia dimmable LED G9 should you wish to go down this route. The light is dimmable and can be set to the light level you require by means of holding down the light button on the handset and releasing when the desired level is achieved. Simply clicking the light button without holding it down will turn the light on & off.
The Propeller is a part of the main Fantasia ceiling fans range and as such comes with a 10-year motor manufacturers’ warranty. The remote control itself is covered by the manufacturers’ standard 2-year warranty. The fan is available in all white & also a brushed nickel finish & also comes in 2 sizes. There is currently a 44” and a 54” and it is recommended that users opt for the larger version wherever possible. This doesn’t usually affect the price as the only difference between the 2 sizes of fan is the blade pack in the box. Blades are available in white, maple & dark oak. Though the Propeller range can take any of the ranges blades, allowing you to choose the colour you like, the white blades come with the white fan as standard and the nickel fans come with maple/dark oak blades.
The Propeller fan is fitted with a short 6” drop rod and this has to be used when installing. Because of this, the Propeller might not be suitable for rooms with low ceilings. If you have high ceilings or wish to install the fan in a conservatory & you need to drop the fan down a little lower, you can purchase longer drop rods as an accessory. The Fantasia Propeller fan requires a 27mm diameter rod and lengths are available in 12”, 18”, 30”, 48” & 72”. On high speed, the Propeller only uses 63W of power, which makes it very economical to run.
To summarise, if you are looking for a good quality ceiling fan that you can rely upon but you want it to be that little bit different to the norm, with a contemporary edge without compromising on performance, then I would highly recommend taking a closer look at the Fantasia Propeller ceiling fan.
Sometimes, when fitting a ceiling fan, you might need a longer drop down from the ceiling. Maybe you’re fitting the fan with a sloped roof and the blades need to clear the angles. Barn conversions and older homes with high ceilings often need ceiling fans to be dropped to improve their effectiveness. A lot of ceiling fans already come on a small drop rod. But what if you need a longer rod? Well this all depends upon where you bought the ceiling fan from. If it was purchased from a catalogue or DIY store, then there is little chance that they will supply longer rods for your fan. If you purchased a ceiling fan from a specialist retailer then there is every chance that longer drop rods exist & are available. The first thing to check is the diameter of the existing rod. This distance across the width of the rod is very important. Ceiling fan drop rods usually come in 2 diameters. Either 22mm or 27mm. If you did purchase your ceiling fan from a catalogue or DIY store & can’t find a longer rod then try measuring the diameter of the existing little rod as some drop rods made for other models will fit & are available. If you are unsure about this, you can give us a call at Lightahome to discuss your requirements. Our telephone number is 024 7671 7043.
At Lightahome we deal with Fantasia ceiling fans and it is their drop rods that we stock. Fantasia drop rods come in 2 diameters and 5 lengths. 22mm & 27mm fan rods are both available in 12”, 18”, 30”, 48” & 72” in a variety of colours to match their fans. If you are unsure on the length or diameter of rod you might require I recommend you speak with Lightahome on the number above or Fantasia.
So, when it comes to lowering your ceiling fan on a longer drop rod, the first thing to realise is that you don’t add a longer rod to your existing one, but you replace it. You also need to remember to turn off the electrical supply before doing any work & if you are at all unsure, you should contact a qualified electrician.
Assuming your ceiling fan is attached to the ceiling and with the power isolated, you would normally remove the dish-shaped cover that hides the attachment to the ceiling at the top of your existing rod. On Fantasia ceiling fans this is done normally be loosening a couple of side screws (sometimes underneath) with allows the cover to slightly rotate and clip off the attachment. This exposes the ceiling fan fixing bracket, which would be screwed in to the ceiling. You would also see all the wiring and the top of the existing drop rod, which should have a ball joint on the end and be hanging from a bracket. Make a note of the positions each cable is wired in to (I draw a simple diagram and even mark the cable covers with marker to identify them). Once you are comfortable with this, the cables can be disconnected and the entire fan unit can then be lifted up off & out of the bracket that the ball joint rested in.
Take a moment and look at the workings of the rod and fan to familiarise yourself with the concept of the ceiling fan drop rod as you will use some of the parts that you see on the new, longer fan drop rod. Rest the ceiling fan on a suitable surface. Maybe put down a towel first so as not to damage the fan or the work surface. If you look at the ball joint at the top of the rod you can see that it is held in place by a pin & a small screw. If you carefully remove the small screw you will see that the ball joint can freely drop down the rod itself. Retain the screw and remove the small metal bar that is positioned through the 2 holes at the top of the existing drop rod. Retain this small bar & the ball joint as well as the ceiling cover you earlier dropped down the rod, which can be slid off the rod, as well. With the top of the rod sorted you now need to sort the bottom of the drop rod which attaches to your ceiling fan motor. To access this there is usually a little cover at the bottom of the rod which needs to be removed. On some fans this cover literally just slides up the drop rod and off. On some you need to undo a few screws first before removing in the same manner. Once off you can see that the bottom of the rod is pushed in to a holder and another bar is positioned to hold it in place. A little ‘split-pin’ is pushed through the end of the little bar to stop it from moving and this can be removed and retained, along with the actual bar itself. The drop rod can now be removed from the fan. The new, longer drop rod, can now be pushed in to place after you have fed the cables protruding from the fan motor, through the middle of the new rod. (NB: if the cables aren’t long enough for the new, longer, rod then Fantasia & Lightahome both do extender packs).
With the new ceiling fan drop rod in position and the cables protruding from the top, you can feed the little bar you previously removed, through the holes in the drop rod holder & drop rod itself on top of the motor. The split pin can be pushed back through the end of the bar to keep the drop rod attached to the ceiling fan. Use the original little cover, feeding it down the rod, to cover up the base of the drop rod as it attaches to the fan. The ceiling fan fixing bracket cover (the first thing you removed) can now also be slid down the rod, in anticipation of fitting it later on.
Now is the time to reattach the original ball joint to the top of the new rod. With the ball joint piece slightly slid down the rod, push the little bar you removed earlier through the 2 holes at the top of the rod. The ball joint piece can then be slid back up the rod and over the protruding bar. With the small hole in the drop rod (at the top) aligned with the small hole on the ball joint piece, you can refit the screw which ensures the ball joint stays in place.
The fan is now ready to be hung back up on the ceiling fan fixing bracket at ceiling level. Lift the fan motor and slot the ball joint back in the holder and gently let go of the motor keeping an eye on the ball joint and bracket to ensure the fan is supported. You can now connect the wires back in to the relevant connector block positions (possibly using the diagram you made previously). Ensure each wire is screwed in tightly. The original ceiling fan cover can now be slid back up the new rod, over the ceiling attachments & the 2 screws can be tightened to hold it in place.
Essentially you are like for like replacing the original rod with a new longer drop rod, using the same parts. The only thing that changes is the drop rod itself which is longer.
This is based upon changing a shorter rod for a longer rod on a Fantasia ceiling fan however the principle should be very similar on other makes and models. If in any doubt I would suggest contacting your original retailer or Lightahome for more advice.
The David Hunt Antler range has become synonymous throughout the UK lighting industry with quality and style. What originally started as a small range for David Hunt, rapidly grew in popularity until it reached the thorough collection of lights that it is today. Sure, it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea and no it won’t suit everyone’s home, but what it does have is bags of character. You would imagine, upon first glance, that the David Hunt Antler lights would sell predominantly to the Highlands of Scotland, where the design would suit hotels & establishments. This isn’t however the case. As an official David Hunt Lighting retailer, we have sold various pieces of Antler lighting to all areas across the UK and some even in to Europe.
From a design point of view, the Antler range has quite a lot of scope. From the crowded, character filled ANT1322 to the simpler, more organic feel of the ANT0329, the range combines both exhuberence with simplicity. Most of the range that comes complete with shades can be finished to a bespoke standard by allowing the consumer to choose the shade colour they require of their accompanying silk shades. Colour options include, Ivory, Sea Mist Gold, Taupe, Linen Grey, Citron, Peony, Olive Green, Firefly orange, French navy blue, Silver grey, Charcoal, Truffle & Black. If the ability to choose your colour of your silk shades on your Antler light isn’t bespoke enough, then David Hunt are open to adjusting any of their Antler lights to your own specification. If the sizes aren’t quite right, or more chain is required then the manufacturer will happily discuss and quote for this.
The reason that David Hunt lighting can change most aspects of their Antler lighting range, to your own specification, is because every single light is hand crafted in their Cotswold work shop. David Hunt Antler lights are treated as pieces of art within the work shop and each light is hand-painted, which means no piece is the same as another. The Antler range of lights are painted in differing colours, ranging from dark browns & blacks to almost white in appearance. Each one features exquisite detailing. The Antler range by David Hunt is not just about ceiling lights. Matching wall lights are available throughout the range and a nice selection of table lamps in the same design are also present. Again, these can have the colour of their shades chosen by the consumer to create a bespoke look.
Lightahome are an approved David Hunt Lighting customer so if you require something from the Antler range then simply give us a call or drop us an email and we can sort your order for you. Although David Hunt do keep some extremely popular lines ready made on the shelf, most are hand crafted to order, so please allow 7-10 working days before your order is delivered.
The Fantasia Aero fan is part of the Elite range of ceiling fans manufactured by Fantasia. The Elite range are a higher standard than the normal Fantasia range and the Aero fan is at the top of this range. As you would expect with a Fantasia Elite fan, it comes complete with a 15 year manufacturers’ motor warranty. The Aero has also had a lot of attention paid to its functionality, with an aerodynamic design to create maximum air movement and a large 56” total blade diameter. The motor is a DC unit which makes the Aero highly efficient and the accompanying 18W LED light means that this particular model of fan is ideal for the energy conscious. The Aero is available in 2 colours. There is a pearl white version and a matt white version. As you would expect with such a high quality of ceiling fan, the Aero comes with an enhanced remote control, that allows you to operate the 6 different speed settings. Most ceiling fans only have 3 speed settings. The remote control will also operate the light. The Fantasia Aero fan is a drop mount fan which means it has to either be fitted on the short drop rod provided, or a longer drop rod, available as an optional accessory.
At 8.5Kg, the Elite Aero fan isn’t the heaviest ceiling fan in the world. That weight range puts it firmly in the middle to average weight level for a fan. What makes this particular ceiling fan stand out from the rest is the huge amount of air movement it can create. At its maximum, the Fantasia Aero fan can create an airflow of 8000 cubic feet per minute! This is the largest airflow of all the Fantasia range of fans and one of the largest available within the UK ceiling fan market. Because the Aero can create such a large amount of air movement it makes it ideal to be ran in a slower mode, which is more pleasing to look at and quieter to operate. This makes the Fantasia Elite Aero ideal for installations in large bedrooms and conservatories.
Being an energy efficient DC motor fan also means that this particular model only has to use 41W of power to operate in high speed. When you consider that a bedroom ceiling fan is often left on in the evening & throughout the night, you can see how the Aero fan is cost effective against other, initially cheaper, models of fan.
The Aero is a very pleasant fan to look at when operating. There is nothing confusing or complicated about the design. It has a very modern, contemporary look about it and when it is spinning in slow mode you still get a good amount of air movement from a calm and controlled looking ceiling fan. If you needed a fan for a conservatory I would seriously consider the Fantasia Elite Aero. The fact that it uses 60% less energy than a traditional ceiling fan is also a bonus. Coupled with Fantasia’s legendary aftercare service and Lightahomes’ superb customer support, the Fantasia Aero comes highly recommended.
The Fantasia Elite Aero ceiling fan is available now on Lightahomes website. You can watch our review video below & also ask us for any advice on 024 7671 7043
Double insulated lighting has been around for about 20 years and is basically a specialist form of lighting that can be fitted when a home doesn’t have an earth connection in its lighting circuit. Typically, homes built before the mid 1960s only tended to have the live and neutral wiring installed and this is no longer safe or appropriate for modern lighting. Take a look at any modern lighting retailer and you will find their ranges comprise mostly of metallic lights. Metal obviously conducts electricity and lights that use halogen can create heat, which over time can degrade wiring and potentially cause a safety problem. Obviously, today a lot of light fittings now use LED which creates very little heat, however double insulated lights are still required as any minor fault can still have disastrous consequences.
From time to time we are asked if a customer can take an existing non-double insulated light and have it converted to class 2 double insulated. We have actually received an enquiry today from a customer who desperately wants to do this because they love their existing lights so much! Unfortunately, it’s not good news.
What makes a double insulated light different to s standard light is how it has been wired. The shell of the light fitting, which is normally metallic, needs to be protected from any loose or damaged wires. The wiring on a double insulated light has additional layers of installation that do this job. Though this may sound quite simple you have to bear in mind that manufacturers of these products have to have each original product tested to ensure it complies. This testing is not a cheap process. It may be cost effective for a manufacturer of double insulated lights to pay the thousands of pounds required to test when they are going to manufacture a few hundred thousand individual products but if a single product was to be tested it wouldn’t be.
The companies also employ experts who know the rules and regulations of the lighting industry inside out. Attempting to change the class of a light fitting may also have a knock-on effect to the lights IP-rating which would undermine it’s ability to be fitted in your home. It is certainly not a DIY job to attempt it.
The last thing that also has a bearing upon the reason you cannot convert an existing light to double insulated is your home insurance. If you try and change the class of the light you are physically changing its characteristics and the state it was safety tested in originally. Should the light cause an accident through electrocution or fire, your insurance would not be valid as the product has been mis-used. Even an electrician is not allowed to change the class of a light to double insulated, for this very reason.
Unfortunately, a lot of people will be disappointed to read this blogpost but rest assured, this isn’t just about following rules! It’s about health, safety & potential serious harm.
If you have any questions regarding double insulated lighting, then you can give us a call on 024 7671 7043 or email on email@example.com